Piedmontese Chicken Made Tuna-Style

In the town of Alba, the capital of the Langhe, the Piedmontese district that produces Italy’s most profound red wines, there is a marvelous casual trattoria, Osteria dell’Arco, where producers hang out. The wine list is, as one might expect considering who their patrons are, extensive, but the menu is short. It changes weekly or monthly at the whim of the chef, always featuring three or four traditional dishes that are rarely well known beyond Piedmont.

When dining out in Piedmont