When Victor goes off to visit wine producers he likes to return with something for me. Once, to my enduring pleasure, he brought back from Alghero in Sardinia a long antique coral necklace, but the mementos of his trips are usually less tangible, often consisting of detailed descriptions of new dishes he had and liked. The goat cheese sauce was on pasta that he had been given at a winemakers’ lunch in Piedmont.
I was intrigued by it because goat cheese is such an un