Lamb Sauce for Pasta, Abruzzi-Style

It is said in France that the goat is the cow of the poor; in Italy one might say that the cow of the lower central and southern regions, for both rich and poor, is lamb. The cheeses are made from sheep’s milk and the meats that you are likely to find in the cooking are those of both young lamb and castrato, an older gelded animal. In Abruzzi, it is the latter that would be used, making this a sauce for which the larger, older lamb of American markets is a natural choice.

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