On one of Victor’s several extended visits to wine producers of the Langhe, that small district in southwestern Piedmont that gives birth to what my husband declares are the world’s noblest red wines and the finest cooking in Europe, we stayed for several days at Da Felicin, a restaurant with rooms in Monforte d’Alba, the handsomest of the Piedmontese wine towns. Monforte is the ideal base from which to explore the Serralunga valley, where the most robust and profound Barol