The flavor base here rests squarely on the aromatic properties of rosemary, which are exploited two ways. Most of the herb is sautéed along with the garlic, which produces a heady, earthy aroma recalling the background fragrance of an Italian roast. When the risotto is fully cooked, I add the remainder of the rosemary off heat, during the mantecare process. At this stage, when the herb is raw, its scent is fresher and more ethereal.

The risotto comes from Friuli, the region i