Several years ago in Venice our downstairs neighbor invited us to dinner. Venetian neighbors just don’t do that. What was equally gratifying was that I walked back upstairs with a recipe for the excellent fish we’d had for dinner.
I admire the delicate play of flavors in this salmon. There is the luxurious, pure taste of the steamed fish set off by the bracing astringency of radicchio, which in turn is tempered by the sweet-and-sour balsamic vinegar.
I have a long, horizontal poacher with an insert on which the fish rests that lifts straight out. It is very practical to use if you poach a whole fish often or, as we do, if you cook cotechino, the long, creamy pork sausage. My neighbor had no steamer of any kind but had rigged up an efficient substitute by placing a rectangular cake-drying rack in a lasagne pan and improvising a lid with a large metal tray.
A fish poacher or see the suggestion in the headnote for rigging one up
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