Baked Leek Pie

Those who have had some acquaintance with Piedmont’s cooking will recognize it in the textural sumptuousness and rich flavor of this torte. The leeks for its batter are cooked very slowly in a covered pan with butter and a little salt, a procedure that concentrates this vegetable’s distinctive sweet-and-sour quality, Piedmontese cooks love egg yolks, and they are used liberally here, together with cream and Parmesan. Yet the dish compels our attention not purely for the richness of its comp