Anyone whose acquaintance with Sicilian food is limited to restaurant fare would be puzzled by the claim that this is one of the world’s most refined and elegant cuisines. If I hadn’t had the good fortune to eat splendid home-cooked meals in Sicily, I would have been disinclined to learn more about the island’s food, but the flavors I experienced at such good tables as those of
Antonino had said, Make sure you use the scallops’ coral. I couldn’t bear to tell him that in America scallops are not brought to the market live in their shell. Only the white, pluglike muscle is shipped, and the shell, along with the bivalve’s delicious—but very perishable—ovary sac is discarded. Instead of slicing the orange, as I had been instructed, I separated it into sections and peeled each section, and, if not the taste, at least I had the look of the scallop’s crescent-shaped, orange-colored egg sac.
© 1997 Marcella Hazan estate. All rights reserved.