Some years ago, on our anniversary, Victor and I decided to revisit Sirmione, the peninsula at the southern tip of Lake Garda where, many winters before, we had had our brief honeymoon. Sirmione is a short morning’s drive from Venice and we thought we would stop there for lunch. The excursion buses at the town’s gate were a signal that the romantically deserted Sirmione of our youth no longer existed, and after a disconsolate walk past the souvenir stalls and down th