Whenever we are in the Piedmontese town of Alba we try to have at least one meal in the cool, neat dining room of the Porta San Martino restaurant. The unlabored yet carefully prepared food of Porta San Martino has a quality I prize greatly, the perceptible presence of a real person at the stove. It is cooking that expresses the warmth and sincerity of the talented woman who produces it,
It’s hard to say what makes this apple timbale of
In Italy I use a homely but flavorful apple called renetta, squashed in shape with a dull, mottled yellow skin. Although it is described as a Canadian apple, I have never found it in North America. What I do find and would use is the always reliable Golden Delicious. You may choose any other cooking variety you favor, as long as it is juicy and more sweet than tart.
A small piece of cheesecloth
An 8-cup loaf pan, 9 by 5 by 3 inches
© 1997 Marcella Hazan estate. All rights reserved.