When Giorgio Rocca, the owner-chef of one of Piedmont’s most illustrious restaurants, Da Felicin in Monforte d’Alba, comes over to your table and suggests you try something he made, however unlikely the dish may sound to you, you suspend judgment until you taste it. Skepticism comes as naturally to an Italian as breathing, and I was skeptical about a frozen dessert loaded with dried fruit, but Giorgio was right—it’s good. I tinkered
