Gelato is Italian for ice cream, any kind of ice cream. Whenever I see the term gelato used in the United States, it appears to be with the intention of describing a particular style of ice cream, one that is often dense and rich. In Italy, however, there is less fat, less cream, less sugar, and less weight than in the so-called Italian-style ice creams that are dispensed elsewhere. Gelato ought to be light and not filling; one should look to it for refreshment rather than nourishment. All flavors are its province, but it is particularly triumphant with fruit, as in the apricot gelato that follows.