The scallion pancake is often thought of as a bread, and it is, in fact, reminiscent of the Indian naan: thin, browned, and crisp, yet textured in the center. It is eaten as a snack or a course in a large meal and is a Shanghai tradition. Indeed, some insist that no one but a chef from Shanghai should even attempt to cook these pancakes. Despite this, the scallion pancake, in various forms, is known and enjoyed throughout China. Most scallion pancakes are made from a basic dough and call for fresh scallions, though some are made from a batter. Some are thin and flat, and others thick. None is baked. Instead, they are all fried. The secrets to making the best scallion pancake are to fry the scallions before you add them to the dough and to use the traditional shortening, lard.