By Max Halley and Ben Benton
Some people swear pork belly must be used for this. They know nothing. Shoulder every time.
Unfurl the pork shoulder of any string the butcher’s put on it and lay it out flat, skin-side down. Pound (in a mortar) or blend (in a food processor) the salt, fennel seeds and chilli flakes before liberally sprinkling the pork with the mix.