Chickpea Pancakes

In the maze of Genoa’s narrow streets, deep within what is believed to be Europe’s largest medieval quarter, bakeries display huge pans of farinata, described as “chickpea pizza” to entice the puzzled tourist. The locals don’t need an explanation, of course, and come to get a piece of this addictive delicacy, delivered simply on parchment paper and devoured quickly on the spot. Farther west along the coast, in neighboring Nice on the French Riviera, the chickpea pancake is called