While Italians use ventresca di tonno ali’olio (canned tuna packed in olive oil) for most of their salads and pastas, we prefer fresh tuna cooked on the grill. It remains moist and doesn’t need a heavy infusion of oil to replace the moisture lost in canning. The tuna closest to ventresca is albacore, but we use the redder fleshed yellowfin when we can get it because it stays moister.