Asparagus and Truffled Ramps

Here’s a delicious starter that evokes springtime as well as any dish I know, pairing thin early asparagus with ramps, or wild leeks, which appear as one of the first greens in the forest.

Ramps and wild leeks are as close as sisters. In the Appalachians, where they grow wild, they’re called ramps. Around the Great Lakes, where they’re picked a little later, with a somewhat larger bulb and a slightly milder flavor, they’re known as wild leeks. In the Bordeaux region of