This is one of my favorite ways to prepare small squid. The method occurred to me while I was reading a book on the cooking of Lungiana, an area near the seacoast of northern Tuscany. Here small flying squid called totani are stuffed with their chopped tentacles mixed with soaked bread crumbs, chopped mortadella, slivered pancetta, and some powerful fresh Mediterranean marjoram and then simmered in a deep flavorful tomato sauce.

I use small calamari from Monterey, California,