I learned this recipe for light, juicy, butter-tender beef or lamb meatballs from a motel chef in the town of Assos on the North Aegean coast of Turkey. Motel chef? Yes, indeed. My friend Ayfer Ünsal took me to the Terrace Motel, assuring me that the chef, Ilker Kaya, was immensely talented and that his koftes were divine. How right she was.
In Ilker’s recipe, the koftes are very slowly poached in an onion sauce scente