My late friend Mario Ruspoli, whose French-language book on Tuscan cooking, Petit Bréviaire de la Cuisine Ėtrusque et Romaine is filled with terrific clay pot recipes, cooked this dish for me at his mother’s home in Tangier, with a slow-roasted boned leg of suckling pig he’d purchased from the only Spanish butcher in town. It was meltingly tender with a crackling crisp skin, and he served it with glazed baby turnips.

Mario ad