In the 1960s, when I lived in Paris, one of my neighbors, Vivienne Foucart, would often gush on about the dishes of her hometown, Sète, on the French Mediterranean coast. Eventually she moved back there, and when I moved down to Tangier, it was a simple matter to take the ferry over to visit and watch her cook. Vivienne taught me many recipes, including this chicken and pork pie, which she prepared in the fireplace by heaping coals on top of a thick ceramic