Ayfer Ünsal, who taught me this delicious rice pudding, is a wonderful cook, a modern Turkish woman, and the author of four books on Turkish cooking. She explained to me that a Turkish rice pudding may be cooked either in the oven or directly over heat on the stovetop. Either way, it’s always in a clay pot, which gives the pudding a wonderful texture and flavor. Her stovetop version produces lovely golden brown bits that, when scooped and scraped up from the bottom, provide