I have been using this recipe for years and cannot remember where it originates. I saw the idea in a book called
Bourride is a fish soup thickened with garlic mayonnaise and this version using chicken copies the principle. You can cook and present the chicken whole if you prefer. For reasons of time and practicality in the restaurant, I make one portion at a time with the chicken jointed but left on the bone, and cook some potatoes and leeks in with the bird.
Divide the chicken into breast, leg and thigh portions. In a heavy lidded pot or casserole, fry the chicken, bell pepper, chilli and lemon rind until they start to colour.
Lift the chicken out from the pot and carve. If it is still slightly underdone, put it back in the pot for a few moments.
Add the leeks to the potatoes in the pot and bring to the boil.
To make the garlic mayonnaise, whisk together the garlic, egg yolks, vinegar and mustard, then slowly whisk in the oils.
Remove the potatoes and leeks from the cooking liquid. Take the meat from the drumsticks and any other trimmings and purée them in a blender with the cooking liquid, which will have reduced in volume by about one-third.
Add the garlic mayonnaise, a teaspoonful at a time, to the blender until the mixture is the texture of a light sauce. Taste and adjust the seasoning as necessary, then serve with the chicken and vegetables.
There is a lot of inspecting done at the smart end of the restaurant trade. This can be wonderful free publicity that boosts morale more than anything sensible like a tax rebate, or, if the tone of the review is negative, it can be seriously depressing.
Those who claim indifference to the stars, marks, gongs or whatever is allocated by the restaurant guides and magazines are not necessarily to be believed. Personal remarks about your taste and comparative judgements between your efforts and those of your competitors strike deep. Then there is the Schadenfreude: a demotion in the
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