Veal Kidney with Red Wine and Cassis

Pale is good when it comes to veal kidneys. If they are too dark, soak them in a mixture of milk and water overnight. The preparation of this dish is as important as the cooking process, for if the mass of white fat and its rubbery connections to the meat are not painstakingly and meticulously removed, the kidneys will be an adventure to eat rather than a pleasure.