I first ate this fabulous snack in Fez. After a hard day’s eating, I stopped at a tiny hole-in-the-wall where I was served crispy sardines in a paper bag with a wedge of lemon. What I loved was the texture of the batter. It was an even mix of flour and semolina, which gave even more crunch to the fish. The subtle spicing, which was mixed into the batter, really brought it to life. Just a little cumin and chilli powder, and you’re away.