Pickled Ramps

Ramps are slender wild leeks that have become extremely trendy in the last few years. Because they can’t be cultivated, are hard to transport, and have a short season, they’re tailor-made to be fetishized by foodies. I recently overheard a man at the farmers’ market scoff that ramps used to be considered a weed and now they’re selling for twenty dollars a pound. While I’d love to share his skepticism, I can’t help but get on the ramp bandwagon: I have a soft spot for anything in the onion f