If cabbage pie doesn’t sound appealing, remember that cabbage is one of those vegetables that easily absorbs the flavors of the other ingredients cooked with it, adding it to its already sweet and earthy taste. The model of this pie is one I tasted many years ago in Ventimiglia, the first town over the French border on the Mediterranean coast in Italy. I remember tasting it for the first time and loving it, but I couldn’t figure out what the filling was made from. I asked Mme Frolla, my chefs wife. She said, “Eet’s da shoo [cabbage in French is chou], darrrrrling, like da choucroute [sauerkraut in French].” Well at first I thought she meant it was sauerkraut, but then I realized it was cabbage. There is a strong tradition of making pies like this one from greens and vegetables of all kinds in Liguria, the Italian region that includes the Riviera area we were visiting. Savoy cabbage is the first choice for this, but plain green cabbage can be just as good, as long as you cook it slowly to develop its full sweetness.