Peel and boil the potatoes until soft, and then push through a ricer or mouli-légumes. Otherwise, mash thoroughly with the warm milk. Stir in the cheese and the butter, and beat until thoroughly incorporated. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve with cotechino, zampone, pork chops or roast pork, or on its own as a soothing first course.
It is particularly good with a shower of white truffles shaved over it.
© 2000 Frances Bissell. All rights reserved.