One of my favourite desserts in Indian restaurants is kulfi, that richly flavoured, intense concoction of frozen evaporated milk. In fact, it is not nearly as rich as cream and egg-based ice creams. It can be frozen in an ice-cream maker, but that will produce a soft freeze, whereas freezing it in a box or mould will give the characteristic concrete-like texture.
Whisk the milk and flavouring until foamy. Stir in the almonds, pour into small, clean yoghurt cartons or a plastic container, cover and freeze overnight, or at least 4 hours. Turn out, slice if necessary, and garnish, if you like, with toasted flaked almonds.
For passion-fruit kulfi, replace half the ground almonds with the sieved pulp of two or three passion-fruit. For mango kulfi, replace the ground almonds with thick mango purée. You may need to sweeten the mixture to taste. Whisk in some icing sugar in this case.
© 2000 Frances Bissell. All rights reserved.