Rich fish, such as salmon and salmon trout, can be accompanied by red wine quite happily.

Here is the red wine sauce I made to accompany the steamed salmon trout and a delicious bottle of 1979 Chateau Trotanoy. It is a dark, glossy sauce. Whilst fish stock is the usual ingredient for fish sauces, it is by no means de rigueur, and I have often used chicken stock; for this sauce, I used a pale sticky stock made with pig’s trotters. With a meat or vegetable stock, this is also a good sauce for grilled lamb or chicken. Fish stock is not as versatile; it does not taste good in a sauce made to accompany meat, except in one or two very specific recipes such as the crayfish sauce Nantua, which in classical French cookery is served with chicken. Tapenade can replace the olive paste, but will, with its capers and anchovies, give a different flavour.