• 300-400 g (10-14 oz) raspberries, rinsed
• thinly pared zest of half a lemon and half an orange
• 200 g (7 oz) caster sugar
• 300 mls (½ pint) milk
• 300 mls (½ pint) single or double cream
• almond paste
• 8 free-range egg yolks
• 15 g (½ oz) glucose – optional, for extra smoothness

Gently cook the raspberries with the citrus zest and half the sugar until they collapse, about 3 to 4 minutes only, in fact hardly enough to cook them, just to heat them through. Remove the seasoning and sieve to a purée. Heat the milk and cream and almond paste. In a bowl, beat together the eggs, the rest of the sugar and the glucose, if using it. When warm, add a quarter of the cream mixture to the egg mixture, and thoroughly incorporate. When the rest of the cream mixture boils, pour it over the egg mixture, beating continuously.

Sieve the mixture into a clean saucepan, and cook gently until it will coat the back of a spoon. Cool, stir in the raspberry purée, then freeze in an ice-cream maker or in a box in the freezer. An ice-cream maker will turn the mixture and make it smooth. You will need to stir the mixture by hand or in a food processor during the freezing process for a really smooth ice cream if you freeze the mixture in a container.

Cook apricots with crushed cardamom seeds, cherries with cinnamon, gooseberries with orange zest and make them into fruit ice creams using this same recipe. Or try Mrs Marshall’s banana ice cream – blend 6 ripe bananas with a glass of Curaçao and the juice of two lemons, sieve, stir into the basic custard, the recipe for which I give, and freeze.

Serve the ice cream in cornets, and arrange bouquet-fashion in a container, or serve scoops on shortbread biscuits, with extra fruit purée.