Watercress Salad with Ricotta Pecorina

About twenty years ago I worked as part-time chef at a (now-defunct) small funky Upper West Side restaurant named Ruskay’s. In those days three of us women shared the job as chef. Each of us had the responsibility of cooking two or three nights of the week, and the challenge was to cook a different menu every night.

Happily Ruskay’s was located close to Lincoln Center and we were blessed with an “artsy” sophisticated clientele. Occa