My first encounter with stockfish (unsalted wind-dried cod) came in the mid-seventies, when I tasted that delicious Niçois speciality, estocaficada. It is a dish where the startlingly gamey flavour of stockfish is accentuated by garlic, tomatoes and black olives. Later I came to translate Jacques Médecin’s La Cuisine du Comté de Nice (Cuisine Niçoise, Penguin, 1983), whic