Croquetas de Manos de Cerdo

TO THE SOUTH OF MADRID, IN A TOWN CALLED ARANJUEZ, SITS THE OLD SUMMER PALACE OF THE KINGS. OPPOSITE THE PALACE IS CASA JOSÉ, A FAMILY RESTAURANT IN A CENTURIES-OLD HOUSE. THE CHEF, FERNANDO DEL CERRO, SHOWED ME AROUND THE MARKET GARDENS ON THE FLATS OF THE RÍO TAJO, WHERE HE BUYS THE FRUIT AND VEGETABLES FOR HIS KITCHEN. LIKE FERGUS HENDERSON IN LONDON OR DAN BARBER IN NEW YORK, HE CHAMPIONS PRODUCE AND TRADITIONAL TECHNIQUES. MANY OF THE DISHES HE COOKED THAT DAY COULD BE MADE ONLY IN ARA