THE SPANIARDS LOVE THEIR MEATBALLS OR ALBÓNDIGAS. THEY ARE A REGULAR HOME MEAL, BUT ALSO APPEAR ON THE MENUS OF THE MOST RUSTIC OF BARS AND WELL-REGARDED RESTAURANTS ALIKE. A MERE MOUTHFUL, THEY ARE ALWAYS MOIST, JUICY AND FLAVOURSOME. LUNCHING ONE DAY AT ONE OF MADRID’S WELL-KNOWN MODERN RESTAURANTS, ANDRÉS MADRIGAL’S ALBOROQUE, I WAS SERVED THE MOST STUNNING DISH. HE HAD BROUGHT TOGETHER THE CLASSIC COMBINATION OF CUTTLEFISH AND BROAD BEANS, WHICH ARE TRADITIONALLY BRAISED, AND HE