NOT FAR FROM THE HEART OF MADRID IS CASA PACO. IT’S A BAR. A BAR FULL OF BLOKES DRINKING CHATOS — LITTLE GLASSES OF CHILLED RED WINE. IT’S NOT FANCY, BUT IT IS BEAUTIFUL. THERE’S A CARVED WOODEN BAR, TILED WALLS AND A SMALL SQUARE GLASS CABINET ON ONE CORNER OF THE BAR WHERE THERE IS ALWAYS A TORTILLA, A SMALL STACK OF LOMO (PORK LOIN) AND CHORIZO, A FEW ROUNDS OF MANCHEGO CHEESE AND A GREAT BIG PINK BLOCK OF PORK TERRINE THAT THE WAITER EMILIO CUTS INTO CUBES TH