Mollejas de Cordero

EVERY TIME I AM IN MADRID I MAKE A BEELINE TO SEE JAIME. HE’S A GALICIAN GUY WHOSE KITCHEN IS A SMALL HOTBOX OF A GRILL ROOM WITH ONLY A PLANE OF GLASS SEPARATING HIM FROM THE STREET. IN THAT FLUORESCENT-LIT CHAMBER HE PERFORMS HIS NIGHTLY THEATRE OF COOKING OREJAS (PIG’S EARS) AND MOLLEJAS (SWEETBREADS) ON THE HOTPLATE. HE SERVES GOOD BEER AND ROUGH GALICIAN WINE POURED INTO WHITE CERAMIC BOWLS. HIS BAR IS QUITE AUSTERE, EXCEPT FOR THE SOUND OF FLAMENCO COMING FROM THE SPEAKE