AS I SAT IN HER KITCHEN, CONCHA BARRADO REELED OFF DOZENS OF JAMÓN RECIPES. HER HUSBAND’S FAMILY HAVE BEEN MAKING JAMÓN IN GUIJUELO FOR GENERATIONS AND SHE KNOWS A JAMÓN RECIPE FOR EVERY OCCASION AND TO GO WITH ALMOST EVERY FOOD KNOWN TO MAN. ONLY WHEN IT CAME TO DESSERTS DID SHE FAIL TO COME UP WITH ONE. THIS IS ONE OF HER FISH RECIPES THAT STRUCK ME AS BEING PARTICULARLY DELICIOUS — BAKED BABY HAKE WRAPPED AROUND JAMÓN, THEN GRILLED AND TOPPED WITH A GOOD DOLLO