ANYONE WHO HAS BEEN TO THE SOUTH OF SPAIN IN SUMMER WOULD HAVE SEEN THE CHIRINGUITOS — THE SEASONAL BEACH BARS THAT SERVE BEER, SANGRIA AND SEAFOOD. SOME ALSO SERVE SARDINES IN THE TRADITIONAL MANNER. IT’S SIMPLE: YOU GET FRESH SARDINES, YOU SEASON THEM, YOU IMPALE THEM ON TWO STICKS AND YOU GRILL THEM OVER COALS. THE RESULT IS SENSATIONAL. THE MEATY SARDINES DRIP THEIR JUICE ONTO THE HOT COALS; THE JUICE VAPORISES, RISES UP AND BATHES THE FISH IN ITS OWN FUMES. YOU CAN CLEAN THE SAR