Pargo a la Parrilla

PERHAPS ONE OF THE MOST MEMORABLE EATING EXPERIENCES I HAVE EVER HAD IN SPAIN WAS IN THE BASQUE COASTAL VILLAGE OF GETARIA. IT’S A SMALL TOWN WHERE LOCALS DESCEND TO EAT CHARGRILLED FISH BY THE SEA. RESTAURANTS LINE THE COURSE OF A LONG-BURIED STREAM THAT FLOWS UNDER THE ARCH OF THE CHURCH BY THE HARBOUR. BY NOON EVERY DAY THE CHARCOAL IN THE OUTSIDE GRILLS IS BLAZING; BY LUNCHTIME AT 2 PM THEIR FIERCE HEAT HAS DIED DOWN AND FLAT FISH ARE BEING COOKED IN BLACKENED FISH BASKETS OVER COALS. I