THE BEST LAMB I HAVE EVER EATEN WAS IN A RESTAURANT IN AN OLD FARMHOUSE IN THE HILLS ABOVE SAN SEBASTIÁN. IT WAS SUCKLING LAMB, AND A WHOLE SHOULDER BARELY FED ONE PERSON. IT WAS COOKED OVER A LITTLE POOL OF AROMATIC LIQUID THAT STEAMED THE FLESH FROM BELOW. THE SKIN WAS LIKE A DELICIOUS PARCHMENT COVERING SWEET SHREDS OF SOFT FLESH. IT WAS SUPERB.