THE BEST LAMB I HAVE EVER EATEN WAS IN A RESTAURANT IN AN OLD FARMHOUSE IN THE HILLS ABOVE SAN SEBASTIÁN. IT WAS SUCKLING LAMB, AND A WHOLE SHOULDER BARELY FED ONE PERSON. IT WAS COOKED OVER A LITTLE POOL OF AROMATIC LIQUID THAT STEAMED THE FLESH FROM BELOW. THE SKIN WAS LIKE A DELICIOUS PARCHMENT COVERING SWEET SHREDS OF SOFT FLESH. IT WAS SUPERB.
To cut the lamb into four pieces (two legs and two ribs), run the tip of a sharp knife through the ‘armpit’ of the lamb and pull the leg away from the ribs to make it easier to remove the leg.
Place the lamb pieces on a wire rack in a large roasting tin. Pour the wine,
Alternatively you can cook the meat in a wood-fired oven. Wait until the heat has died down to under 220°C (425°F/Gas 7), or the intense heat will burn the skin before it cooks.
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