Cogollos a la Vinagreta

THE SPANISH SO LOVE THEIR COGOLLOS, OR BABY LETTUCE, THAT THEY LOBBIED FOR THEIR OWN DENOMINACIÓN DE ORIGEN. A LETTUCE WITH A D.O. MUST BE SPECIAL — AND INDEED THE COGOLLOS DE TUDELA ARE REMARKABLY SMALL AND COMPACT, WITH A SHARP, MILKY FLAVOUR. ALTHOUGH THE LETTUCE’ COMES FROM NAVARRA, THIS RECIPE COMES FROM A MATE IN CÓRDOBA. IN THIS DISH A WARM VINAIGRETTE, INFUSED WITH GARLIC AND ANCHOVIES, IS DRIZZLED OVER THE OPEN HEART OF THE LETTUCE, MAKING ITS WAY THROUGH EVERY