Pastel Cordobés

DOWN THE STREET FROM MY AUNTY CARMEN IS A CORNER CAFE THAT FROM THE OUTSIDE SEEMS A PRETTY PERFUNCTORY AFFAIR. THE OWNER, JAVIER, SELLS A FEW BAGS OF NUTS, SOME PACKET PASTRIES AND CANNED SOFT DRINKS. BUT HE’S PERPETUALLY BUSY BECAUSE HE MAKES GREAT COFFEE AND ALWAYS HAS A GREAT BIG PASTEL CORDOBÉS — A BIG PASTRY FILLED WITH CABELLO DE ÁNGEL OR ANGEL’S HAIR, A FANCY NAME FOR THE FLESH OF A PARTICULAR MELON THAT HAS BEEN CANDIED WITH SUGAR. (IN SPAIN IT’S CALLED CEDRA).