I was first introduced to black pudding at Pello. It’s the kind of Franglo thing that chefs such as Marco Pierre White champion and it is often paired with scallops. When I started working at Marque Restaurant in Sydney, I finally learnt how to make it properly. It was both a nightmare and a bloodbath. We had to poach it lightly in a big pot of water at a constant 82°C (180°F). The first time I had to make it I thought: ‘Why do I have to go through this much trouble to cook this?’ Then I ate it and was completely converted. This version is really creamy and soft and when you pan-fry it, you get that crispy exterior and the softness on the inside. This recipe is a culmination of the techniques I learnt at Marque and Bentley Restaurant + Bar, but also contains my own flourishes. There are heaps of ways to serve it, but it pairs particularly well with shellfish or squid.