Roasted Cashews with Ajwain

Among the treasures of the New World brought to India by the Portuguese, cashews are at the top of the list. The usual Indian way with cashews is to fry them, as my mother and grandmother always did, but I prefer roasting them to a pale gold before tossing them with a very small amount of ghee, butter, or olive oil as stickum for pounded ajwain seeds and salt. Ajwain, or ajowan, with its heady oregano-like scent, is my favorite cashew-spicing option.