Mother’s “Italian” Eggs

Italian eggs are as Italian as the French dressing you buy in supermarkets is French. Throughout my early childhood, though, this is how I imagined Italian food might taste. I wonder if there’s some equally improbable counterpart in Italian cuisine, something all’indiana. My mother dates Italian eggs—no Gujarati name for them—back to her own childhood, a recipe from a family friend, Tehmina Lalkaka. In an early-twentieth-century Parsi cookbook written in Gujarati there’s a recipe for