Mulligatawny

Here’s a dish that’s done some wandering. The word mulligatawny comes from the Tamil mulluga thanni, which means, literally, “pepper water.” Mulligatawny underwent its first change when made for the British by their Tamil cooks and changed yet again when it came into Parsi hands. You’ll also find it made with curry powder, raisins, and apples, but not by any Indian person. In my mother’s house, mulligatawny was served for lunch as a main dish with lots of rice or as a dinner-p