Andrew de Souza was my mother’s cook for twenty years. For every day of those twenty years, he had just one thing for lunch and dinner: this curry. All sorts of fascinating fishy things went into Andrew’s curry that the family never saw. One of them was skate, which I later got my mother to eat in San Francisco by calling it fanfish.
Unlike Indian curries characterized by creaminess, this particular type of Goa curry is very thin, very hot, and very sour. I remember my mother and her friends once having a competition over whose curry was the hottest. I was there the night of the winning entry, watching eight grown-ups weeping in bliss.
Serve this curry with plain or steamed rice. If you have the time, make the curry a day ahead because it really does improve with standing. Accompany with cucumber salad.
© 2007 All rights reserved. Published by University of California Press.