Andrews Goa Curry

Andrew de Souza was my mother’s cook for twenty years. For every day of those twenty years, he had just one thing for lunch and dinner: this curry. All sorts of fascinating fishy things went into Andrew’s curry that the family never saw. One of them was skate, which I later got my mother to eat in San Francisco by calling it fanfish.

Unlike Indian curries characterized by creaminess, this particular type of Goa curry is very thin, very hot, and very sour. I remember my mother and he