In Bombay after nightfall, you’ll often see someone on a corner grilling liver, kidneys, and other kebabs on skewers. It’s a sign that there’s some serious drinking going on in the vicinity. The biggest and best of these stands, Bade Mia behind the Taj Mahal Hotel, now has tables and chairs on the street, a storefront, and a permanent sign. Take your choice of either red or green masala. Or try liver with one masala and kidneys with the other.