Nana’s Biryani

My grandmother’s biryani was so delicious that I started begging for it on my birthday instead of the required plain dal and rice, dhan dar, that marks all occasions, happy or sad. My mother yielded, though I could see she felt the finger of tradition wagging at her. This biryani is usually made with kid, though well-trimmed lamb, stewing veal, or boneless chicken thighs work just as well. The masala is made extra-creamy with cashews and white poppy seeds.

Biryani is a rich,